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Tipping (and Nessebar)

Jacqui from Scarborough, North Yorks writes (25/09/07):

Just been to Nessebar.
The Alexander restaurant in New Nessebar was lovely and the staff were very helpful and good. They got a good tip. Food good too- which is why you go. We sat next to a couple from Burgas who come over especially to go there, which seems an excellent recommendation in its own right.

One negative. Went to the Old Anchor in Old Nessebar. Food was good, but the staff certainly didn't put themselves out for you at all and thought they should simply get a tip for nothing and got snotty with people who didn't feel they deserved one. Gave you back what they wanted in a tip in loose change instead of notes. To underline it, one of the waiters had on his name badge, " A tip isn't a town in China!" How ever good the food I would not go back. (or am I too English about it all?)

Ed comments:

This generally reflects our experiences in Old and New Nessebar.

I suspect the problem in Old Nessebar is that most customers are tourists, probably there for only a few hours. They will not be returning next day.

New Nessebar however attracts Bulgarian families who will be staying for a couple of weeks, perhaps more. They will be returning next year. Some customers live there 52 weeks of the year.The eateries are frequently family run - and that makes a whole load of difference in terms of customer care.

The whole issue re tipping is (certainly for we Brits) a whole lot more complex. On balance I believe you were fortunate to receive your change in coins or small notes. This generally happens in restaurants experienced in dealing with overseas visitors. You are left in the driving seat and can decide whether to tip - and if so, how much.

I enjoy visiting Bulgaria to discover new locations - and new places to eat. Inevitably these will normally be frequented by Bulgarians; for me an important part of the 'visitor experience'. However the inevitable small purchases involved in local travel mean that I often lack appropriate small change. An infuriating - and sadly common occurrence - is when a meal and drinks comes, say, to 12 leva and and I proffer a 20 leva note, asking for change. The waitress disappears and one hour later, despite an influx of hungry customers, has not reappeared. This can happen all too often.

I have discussed this with Bulgarian colleagues. Some consider it fair practice, others are appalled.

I now, when visiting a new eatery for the first time, practice a complicated ritual when paying the bill to a waiter / waitress with limited English.

First I go through my wallet, empty out any small coins, sigh, puff and breath heavily, say sorry (ideally three times or more), roll my eyes to heaven, hold out my note - and point to her purse. This generally works.

If it doesn't I enact Ritual 2. This involves banging the table several time, groaning, smashing down my wallet, kicking the chair and throwing my hands to the sky. I then leave, noisily, generally followed by all customers who have not pre-ordered.

On balance, I guess lots of loose change is better for my blood pressure!

I should emphasise that I love Bulgaria and I love its food. I return whenever I can. But it is a country experiencing enormous change and evolution. Inevitably standards of customer care differ greatly. At the little 'Sunny' at Harmanite I always receive a free ice cream, perhaps with fig jam 'on the house'. On a chill late September evening (07) I received a most welcome local brandy 'on the house'. I guess I tip significantly more than the cost of the 'add on' - but I return there, frequently.