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Coastal Delights Sunny Beach (Slanchev Bryag) Bugaria's most popular tourist resort can be something of a shock to the visitor who has fallen in love with the culture, pace, cost and seductive charm of most of the rest of the country. Huge, sprawling, relatively expensive, anonymous and ill planned, it's a most non Bulgarian part of Bulgaria. Sunny Beach is extremely popular as a low cost destination for hundreds of thousands of Brits and if it's sun, sea and nightlife you seek Sunny Beach will probably not disappoint. But it's not a base for the discerning traveller. And if you limit your stay to the confines of Sunny Beach and its immediate neighbours St Vlas and Nesebar you will have missed a great opportunity to experience something much more memorable - a little taste of real Bulgaria! St Vlas (Sveti Vlas) Immediately North of Sunny Beach (and rapidly becoming a part of it) St Vlas was once a charming location favoured by artists and the Bulgarian elite. Sadly those days are now over as concrete increasingly smothers the pretty villas that once nestled against the mountains. Elements of its former self can still (just) be found and the stunning view south to Old Nesebar, particularly as sun falls, is certainly worth experiencing. Nesebar Nesebar has two wildly contrasting elements. Old Nesebar, located on the peninsular is a Unesco World Heritage site. Beautifully restored 19th century houses jostle for visual attention behind the 3000 year old walls. It's probably Bulgaria's most popular tourist destination and during the day, particularly in peak season, can feel congested. The coaches, the chattering German matrons meekly followed by their docile, white socked, khaki clad photographer spouses, can at such times make this ancient, living town feel somehow unreal and sterile. But it comes into its own when strolling in the early morning sun for breakfast or a coffee at the quay and again in the evening when the day trippers have departed The restaurants at the Eastern tip of the island (connected to New Nesebar by a bridge) may have stunning views - but the sea food is only average and, as you might expect from a major tourist destination, the price although fair by British standards, is nevertheless probably the most expensive in the whole of Bulgaria Better value, but still expensive by Bulgarian standards, are the restaurants adjoining the harbour. Should one of the huge, luxury Black Sea cruise ships be moored in port the eating experience can be a little intimidating! There are several restaurants immediately beyond the ancient town walls. One stood out. Fronted by an imitation windmill and with a slightly 'plastic' exterior it was totally packed by extended Bulgarian families - grand parents, parents and myriads of exhausted children totally detemined not to waste one second of their Bulgaria Coast holiday. Always a good sign. The restaurant was obviously touristy (this is after all Bulgaria's most popular tourist destination - Ed), but the food great value and the atmosphere great fun. New Nesebar is immediately South of Sunny Beach. It is a very different animal to Old Nesebar but also has a character that is (currently) quite unlike adjacent Sunny Beach. We enjoyed staying and eating there. Quiet it isn't. Preteens will enjoy the funfair. Music blasts till five and and as weary clubbers return and the pounding base abates - the world's noisiest seagulls take their revenge. The cafes on the main drag and the mehanas to the south offer excellent value breakfasts and lunches. However if i'ts serious seafood you're after, accompanied by truly personal service, great views and frankly silly prices you've got to proceed South, via Bourgas to just one place - and that is Sozopol. Bourgas We like Bourgas. To get to the action take the bus all the way to the main square. It stops at a couple of smaller locations but will empty when you arrive at the main station (avtorgara Yag - see picture above). To the left and in front of you is the railway station which connects to the rest of Bulgaria (and many other exotic locations). Behind you are the offices for the frequent coaches to Istanbul. If you need to use the conveniences they're to your right; they're generally pretty clean (although there is a small charge). Turn right across the square (simply follow the crowd) and you're at the beginning of ulitsa Aleksandrovska. Proceed, under shady trees. The pl Troikato features the huge Soviet Soldier monument. On your left, is the excellent Helikon Bookshop with the most helpful staff for local maps, etc. To your right is the former home of the University. Turn left and second left for an internet cafe (situated above a small shoe bar). Continue along ulitsa Aleksandrovska until you reach the gleaming new home of the Free University. Congratulations - you've just joined the Promenade! This is compulsory viewing for all red blooded Bourgas males aged from 8 to 98 (and no doubt quite a few more) who flood the Alexsandrovska cafes, smoke, eat, smoke, drink, smoke and smoke some more. But they're really only here to admire the view. And don't the women know it. They're stunningly beautiful and dressed to the nines as they strut their stuff, flirt and display a latest item in their current wardrobe. Ulitsa Aleksanrovska is just one long cat walk. We go back whenever we can. Bulgarian women are blonde and petite. My wife is tall and Black African. Consequently she tended to stand out from the crowd. But in Bourgas we were always treated with affection. We really liked the place.The compact centre has a distinctly cosmopolitan feel. Ulitsa Aleksandrovska - where the action takes place throughout the year - is a striking contrast to the stark former Communist era blocks to the north and the heavy industry of the southern suburbs. A popular summer lung is the Maritime Park (situated to the North of the Bus Station) with its restaurants and cafes - and in late August many of the venues for the International Folk Lore Festival. So, for a memorable afternoon or three do what all good Bourgas citizens do (but try and smoke a little less - Ed): sit beneath those leafy trees, eat, drink and monitor the action. It's much more fun than watching tv. Sozopol (The Eternal City) Within minutes of our first arrival we knew that, for us, Sozopol would always be somewhere special. And on numerous repeat visits it has never disappointed. It may not have quite so many historic artefacts as Nesebar but Old Sozopol has a wonderful laid back charm all of its own. A favourite haunt of Bulgarian artists and writers for over 100 years now it is, mercifully, less contaminated by tourism than Nesebar. It remains true to itself - a relaxed fishing village with stunning views, walks and beaches which in July and August welcomes with a Sozopol smile its many visitors. Most of these are Bulgarians, many now working and living abroad, who return every year with their families to recharge their batteries and holiday memories. Throughout the first ten days of September it presents the excellent Apollonia Arts Festival - which last year (2007) concluded with the excellent Ivo Poposov. Sozopol has a truly deserved reputation for the best sea food restaurants on the whole of the Black Sea. These are too numerous to list but generally offer stunning value for money. For quality basic fish try those around the port. Unfortunately the floating Fish Bar lat year (2007) become a Floating Chinese - perhaps a sign of the times; Bulgaria Coast fish stock is dwindling fast. For some great menus, plus stunning views, the Kirik and Ksanta are essential 'must visits'. They are situated close together yet can be suprisingly hard to locate. Believe me - it is worth the effort! To find the Kirik proceed along the harbour road (Krazbrezhna), past the many anchored fishing boats almost to the end. The Kirik is one of the two restaurants up the steep steps on your right. If you miss it - and I initially did on numerous occasions - simply turn right at the end of Krazbrezhna and first right again (effectively doubling back upon yourself). The Kirik is the second restaurant on your right. The fish is always excellent, the spicy chicken livers make a great brunch and, although it's not my favourite dish, my Lonely Planet Guide praises its mussels in a mustard and cheese sauce. (I prefer them in wine with lots of garlic). Those with an eco conscience should know that 1) these mussels will probably have been gathered from one of the bays immediately south of Sozopol and 2), mussels - unlike much of the Bulgaria Coast fish stock - are a truly sustainable 'harvest'. The Ksantana is more rustic with a comprehensive menu and a wonderful view of St John's Island. It is located on three levels at the beginning of Morski Skali. One way of finding is to turn right at the end of Krazbrezhna (the harbour road), immediately left, left again and right into Marski Skali. The Ksantana is on your left, by the steps. The Hotel Diamanti is located at towards the far end of Morski Skali (hotel to right, outside tables to your left). The Sozopol Art Gallery is a few yards further. The Diamanti's outside tables, above the rocks and blue waves but beneath green trees, provide a welcome haven in the heat. Should you tire of seafood, the many small eateries along Harmanite Beach will be worth a visit (the 'Sunny' menu even includes 'Frogs Hinds' - which I confess I didn't sample). The Barrakuda offers stuffed peppers for just 3 leva (approximately £1) and an 'Omelette Assorti' for the same price. The pizzeria by the bus station not only blends and spins your pizza base before your eyes but the topping tastes as if the vegetables were just picked that very morning - which of course they probably were. A more 'upmarket' pizzeria can be found at the top of ul Apolonia, beyond the newly restored Post Office, in the heart of the old town. Immediately opposite is the comfortable cafe owned by the husband of the mayor which in festival time is a popular meeting point for visiting artists. Should you like alchoholic ice creams the beach bars south (ie right) on the gently sloping Town Beach serve delicious, if lethal, cocktails: an iced black chocolate, whisky, coffee liqueur mix for a mere 3 leva 20 or - for the same price - an iced white chocolate, white rum, white pina colada combi. Just be careful when you hit the sun. Access to Sozopol is easy; just take the bus from Bourgas (which tends to park in front of the bus just arrived from Sunny Beach), about 40 minutes. South of Sozopol Here hide Bulgaria Coast's real rural secret delights. Between Sozopol and the Turkish border are undiscovered beaches, Bohemian Kavtzite and the more remote Alepu bay, the semi tropical Ropotomo river, ancient forests and unexploited dunes, marshes and nature reserves. Access by public transport is not easy off season and even the most intrepid traveller might be wise to leave this for a second trip. But if you're prepared to hire a taxi, car or minicab you might just experience something that few Brits will have so far shared. Varna It's worth taking the bus to Varna - purely for the scenic ride across the plains and mountains that settle aside the Bulgaria Coast. Varna is Bulgaria's third largest city but it's very different from Bourgas. It's impossible not to be constantly aware that you're in a former communist city with its great, brooding squares. But for the culture vulture there's far more to see and experience than you could ever possibly pack into a single day. Start at pl Nezavisismost and visit the Cathedral of the Assumption, walk past the Navy Museum (its exhibits are huge and can clearly be viewed from outside), perhaps visit the City Art Gallery (there are probably 20 others), see any of the many museums (the Museum of National Revival is a 'must'), the Armenian Church and that of Sveta Atanas and the splendid Roman Thermae. Note The above descriptions are mere 'tasters'. To find out more visit the official travel site on links and / or buy the Rough and Lonely Planet Guides
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